Try straight 4X fluorocarbon tippet from the fly line to the first fly then 6X from the first fly to the dropper. The fluoro is stronger that regular 4X and sinks way faster since it's all one diameter. A regular tapered leader will not sink nearly as fast since the thicker part doesn't cut through the water as easily.
If you are nymphing there is no need for a tapered leader since you don't need the flies to roll over like when dry fly fishing. Plus it's cheaper! Sure the fluoro is about $13 a spool but it will last a long time compared to almost $4 for a tapered leader that might get you through 1 day of fishing.
good point packrat. I as well always use straight fluro when nymphing, any where from 4x-2x depending upon the time of year and river, then i normally go down one size to my dropper. I deffinately can attest to its durability. Not that i would recommend it, but i have had fly set ups in my dropper box pre tied up for months, that i dont hesitate to use again without re-tying. I use these same set ups over and over again until i get snagged up and can honestly say that ive never had a problem breaking off any fish due to my lazy set up system (except for the occassional bruiser that breaks me off to fight another day). truly amazing with what they have done with fluoro these days, not like the cheep fluoro coated stuff people use for bass, but then again at 12 bucks a pop it better be good stuff.
I think its really a matter of personal preference/confidence, but i prefer frog-hair when it comes to fluoro, with rio a close second.
when it comes to dries, i personally havn't had better success when fishing with a fluro leader as opposed to a regular one, but maybe other people have?
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Where do you guys place weight on your tandem rigs? I usually place some shot between the point fly and dropper . However, I have seen a few diagrams showing the shot placed above the point fly. Any particular benefit from moving the weight up above the point fly?
Packrat, are you planning on throwing out more tips from time to time...#2, 3, 4...in the future? Very interested, far more positive than recent bickering posts! I could see this as an extremely useful resource under "Instruction."
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Where do you guys place weight on your tandem rigs? I usually place some shot between the point fly and dropper . However, I have seen a few diagrams showing the shot placed above the point fly. Any particular benefit from moving the weight up above the point fly?
I've seen some guys do it like that but I don't. I feel if you put the weight between the flies then the top fly doesn't get any natural movement because the weight is pulling the line tight up to the first fly. You want fluid natural motion to the flies as if they were free floating in the water column.
Have you experienced the 4x tippet cutting the fly line loop? A few years back, I noticed after a nasty, frustrating tangle, that my line coating was partially sliced by the 5x tippet. In a rig like this where your are not concerned about the perfect roll-over (as with dry flies), I've joined my long tippet to a short, heavier line (old leader or mono) looped to the fly line...worried about cutting another line with a small diameter tippet/loop.
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Never cut the line as I don't tie the leader/tippet directly to the fly line. I use a butt section of 20lb maxima from the fly line that is about 18 inches long or so. All my knots are tied to the butt section and when it gets too short I clip off about 1/4 inch of fly line and tie on a new one. I use a reverse nail knot I learned a long time ago. You actually thread the maxima through the middle core of the flyline for about 1/4 inch then exit the flyline and do the nail knot. It makes a sweet and smooth flowing line. I don't use loop to loop connections as they hang up on the guides. I'll post a photo of the connection later in another thread and maybe do a photo instruction step by step if I can explain it clearly enough.
Great Tips. Also remember to always lick your line when tying knots as it cools it from the heat it generates through friction. Its an old trick a fisherman once taught me.
For those that have stiff fingers like me, especially during cold weather, I use a small square of 1/16" fly foam to help with attaching the dropper fly. Run the point of the first fly through foam to middle of the bend. Wrap the dropper tippet around the hook above the foam and proceed with the knot. I use a improved clinch and the foam keeps the loop from falling off the bend while making the wraps and while running the tag end through the loops. Cinch the knot down and remove the foam.
I also pre-tie 6X and 7X tippet to size 20 and smaller flies and carry them in 3 X 5" plastic bags-you can buy them online or just save the ones all your gear comes in-good way to recycle. Your vise holds the fly while you tie the knot. Gret time and frustration saver.
Nice tip SK60. Tying a improved clinch knot on the bend of a hook is a not fun. Thats why I use the Davy knot for tippets 4x and smaller and on hook sizes smaller than #6. I use it for tying in my primary fly and and my droppers. It's an easy knot to tie, it's quick (15-20 seconds), is stronger than the improved clinch, and can be tied leaving only a fraction of an inch of tippet to trim. You can't beat it.
another easy way to tie the dropper to the lead fly is to start with a loop in the tippit and holding the tag end and the main tippit in one finger. Nxt you put your pointer finger into the loop and twist and proceed tying the knot and then you slide the knot over the bend of the fly and synch it down
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It's much more important.