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Post Info TOPIC: Interesting Article on Nymphing


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Interesting Article on Nymphing
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Here is an interesting article I saw on another board that I thought gave some good info
Check it out:


-- Edited by Brundoggy at 09:21, 2009-01-09

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Excellent find!  I'm surprised they were able to get divers that close to feeding trout.

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I read that about 2 weeks ago in feild and stream, really excellent insite. Especially the part that said tippet size didnt seem to matter as much as people think, I was mostly using 5x on putah, went to 4x and 3x now and it really doesnt seem to matter much.It also mentioned european nymphing, anyone ever try this?



-- Edited by thecaptain at 18:04, 2007-02-06

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That was a pretty cool article. Lots of little tid bits that seem very helpful. Thanks for the post.

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I highly recommend the Book,  "Fish Food" by Ralph Cutter.
In my opinion this guy is pretty much the master of Entomolgy, fly patterns and
techniques.  Check out his web site at www.flyline.com.
Ralph got into the water with his snorkel a long time ago. He has a 8oo gallon fish tank in his house and grows bugs.



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Speaking of interesting people and articels... Is anybody going to the fly fishing expo in pleasanton on feb. 23,24,25? I really want to meet Joe Humphrys. I watch that guy all the time on Fly Fishing America. It looks like fun. A lot of demos, seminars and vendors. I think its only 14 bucks and all of the seminars are free except for special clinics. Ill post more info. if anybody is interested. I dont have it with me right now.

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While I don't agree with everything he says, he does make a lot of excellent points. Drifts are crucial, and false casting is a waste of time and energy. I always use 6x flouro on Putah for several reasons. Mainly, I have a lot of confidence, as 6x has always been good to me. Also I like to get the best drift possible, and the lighter tippet achieves this. As Ralph Cutter mentions, lenghthening your tippet and going smaller creates a better drift. If you guys are nailing them on 3, 4x that is awesome! But i don't think a #18 or 20 will drift very naturally on that heavy of a tippet. I've only broke 1 fish off at Putah, an 18" that shot downstream and broke it at the fly, probably a poorly tied knot (7x what do you expect). If I do lose a fish, and this happens a lot, it's due to the little hooks pulling out. Yarn is the way to go, soak em and apply floatant and they float like corks.



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JT


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I'm with you on the tippet size, dtp916.  I think the fly drifts better with lighter tippet.  When it comes to indicators, I still use both yarn and foam.  I always use yarn in faster water.  I usually use white, though.  It seems to match the color of the water.  I use the foam when I need a sensitive indicator.  Sometimes the fish bite super soft and the foam seems to pick it up better.   

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Of course tippet size is gonna depend on the fly i choose, but i personnaly only goto 6x with dry's, small nymphs i'll still goto 5x, but lately hasn't seemed to matter much. My personal choice on indicator's is poly yarn, red, i can see the red the best, and i always trim em down quit a bit, and add a little floatant to em. Once inawhile i like to use no indicator. Looks like were gonna be rained out this weekend

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JT


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One of the things that was said in the article was to change your weight three times before you change your fly.  I can attest to the fact that weight does make a huge difference.  I don't how many times I've added extra weight and caught fish on the very next cast.  Weight is the main reason that it took me so long to catch my first fish on a fly.  I simply wasn't using enough weight.  Of course there were other variables, but I think that is the main reason. 
As far as tippet goes, I usually use 5X to my first fly.  The only time I use bigger tippet is when using a streamer or when the water is really off color.  I rarely use big flies, so this is pretty much all of the time.  I generally use 6X to my dropper, which is usually #20-#22.  I've talked to others about this before, but I just can't use tippet material that I can barely fit through the hook eye. 

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I noticed the weight issue too...  It begs the question: what's the weighting system that best allows the angler to change weights easily?  Right now, I use split shot and if I want to remove weight I either have to change my tippet material or cut the shot apart with my nippers (requiring me to catch all the lead fragments).  I've tried Toobies, but I don't really like the way my leader behaves with the sleeve attached (it tangles too easily).  

Mostly I can avoid having to reduce weight by starting with less weight and adding more as I go, but it would be great to have a better way.

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JT


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You can use removable shot.  There are tools that make it easier to remove shot from your line.  One downfall is that when you remove the shot, your tippet is weakened.  I usually just start small and add more as I need it.

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As far as weight goes i try to fish spots were i dont need much, I hate fishing with shot, I dont cast well with shot on, I rather put on a heavy fly like a 14 copper john or a big beadhead pheasant tail like a size 12 or 14, also tungsten beadheads are heavier then standard beadheads so i use those alot also for weight, then i go with something much smaller below. Am I the only one out there that doesnt cast well with shot on? because i havent heard anyone else say this? This is something I have meaning to ask about for awhile. It's nice to see alot of posts lately, good way to get info. and learn a few things.

-- Edited by thecaptain at 17:10, 2007-02-07

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Captain, I also hate using any weight! It does mess with the ability to cast well. I will usually use a beadhead or somthing with a little weight, and then a smaller dropper off of that. If the water is moving fast I will increase my leader length because the moving water will catch the excess leader and bring the flies deeper (to an extent). Sometimes you need weight and I will use the smallest microshot ive got to start and go a size up each time from there if necessary.



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JT


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I never thought about it, but I guess I'm almost always fishing with shot.  When I fish the creek, I almost always use nymphs.  On the rare occasions that I do use dries, it takes a couple of casts to remember how to cast again.  I guess you could say that I don't cast well without shot.

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  I read the article and the one thing that really jumped out at me was the part about missed strikes and that a fish will take the nymph and spit it out before the indicator will even move at all.  I was fishing in Montana and asked the guide about missing strikes while nymphing and he showed me a trick that has helped me immensely.  He said that when you cast your indicator and fly upstream you need to half your fly hanging straight down under your indicator so that when a fish takes it there is no lag time at all.  The trick is when you put the indicator on "which is a big corkie"  you make a loop with your leader where you want to put the  indicator, put the loop through the bottom of the corkie and feed it through the top hole.  Then lay a rubber band through the loop,  pull down on the leader, this pulls the rubber band through the hole but makes it stick straight up in the air.  When the Corkie is drifting down stream and the rubber band is sticking staight up it means your fly is directly under the indicator,and if you get a hit there is absolutely no lag time at all, if the rubber band is not up your fly is either to the side or trailing.  This has helped me a lot.  I guess they have indicators with little flags on them also, same idea.    Hope this helps, it was kind of hard to explain but hopefully you got the idea.

            edog

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I would say 98% of my nymph fishing involve using split shot. I used to use a lot of BB's, especially in fas****er places, but now I realized that B and smaller shots will do the job better in most cases (at least for me). Dinsmore has the best shot I think, easy to get on and off, and stays in play well when pinched with forceps. I have been using water gremlin "removable" shot lately - what a joke, the worst out there if you want to re-use them. Dirt cheap though.

Detecting grabs under an indicator always results in a lot of missed strikes. Last fall on a fishing trip, I routinely watched fish eat my fly, spit it out, and the indicator didn't budge at all. If it moves, set the hook. There's been countless times on Putah when it was just a tap that turned into a fish. Yarn indicators are the easiest to cast for me and since i fish nymphs a lot, I'm pretty used to casting weight and indicators on my 5wt.

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JT


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If you want to see how easily a fish can inhale and spit out your fly, go bluegill fishing with a dry/dropper rig.  When the fish are in the shallows, you can get a pretty good look at them.  The fish will sometimes spit the dropper out two or three times.  It's a trip how fast they can do it.



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JT


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I'm sure a lot of the newer people haven't read this, so I thought it would be good to bring this article back to the top of the list.  There are some interesting topics in this article.

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JL


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JT:

I'm psyched you reposted this thread.  I enjoyed reading it.  I too, use a lot of shot when I fish nymphs.  I try to use as little as possible, but in order to establish a 'connection' between the fly and the indicator (to see that grab right away) you have to get those flies deep and get them deep fast.  In fast water, the best way to do that is with shot.

Here are my thoughts on various person's posts:

Casting with shot:

Captain - it's not that hard.  First, roll cast whenever possible, esp on Putah.  once you master that, most of your casting issues with shot will be resolved. Second, after your first drift, let the line drag downstream from you and use that 'pull' on the rod to load it up.  While the current is dragging on your line, raise your casting arm, pointing your wrist where you want to cast and fling the whole getup.  You'll be surprised how easy it is to cast your line 50 feet when using the current to load the rod.  Third, if you have to back cast with weight - you have to be super conscious of waiting long enough for your backcast to completely unfurl.  If you have a lot of line out, this can be kind of unnerving - but you have to be patient with it.  Also, if you have a lot of weight, you'll have to be strong with your backcast to lay it out behind you.  Once your line is unfurled, you can cast it forward without a lot of effort.  The timing is a delicate balance though.  If you cast too soon (before your back cast is unfurled), your going to either get your line tangled, snap off your flies, or worse yet - hook yourself in the head.  If you wait too long, you'll drag your flies on the ground, tearing them off, hook vegetation, or hit yourself in the head or back.

Tippet-size:  To me, 5x is usually plenty small.  If i'm using a tiny fly I'll go with 6x, just to make sure the thing wiggles in a life like fashion.  With big flies, why not use big tippet? Most guides I've fished with answer the question: "what size tippet should i use with" - "as big as you can get away with".  Lefty Kreh said that he NEVER used any tippet smaller than 5x and that those that did use tippet smaller than that were wasting their time and needed to improve their fishing technique.  Now - I don't feel that way - but he did.

Weight - one great way to nymph in fast water with a lot of weight is to tightline.  You use a LOT of weight to do this in fast water b/c you have to be able to feel the weight to follow your line downstream.  If you can hold it tight to the weight, but not so tight that you drag your flies, you'll feel almost every take.  This technique doesn't really work in slow water.

I'm going to read those articles that were posted.  Tight Lines everyone. 

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JL


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Here's a good article on strike indicators.

I've been using the corky for some time just b/c it floats well and doesn't sink.  I think i'll switch to yarn and see if that works better for me.

http://www.flyfisherman.com/skills/ltindicators/

JL

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JT


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Personally, I like to use 6X with anything #20 or smaller.  I'm not too fond of the idea of using tippet that is bigger than the wire on my fly.

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SCM


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Thanks for posting the nymphing article.  One comment I would add regarding roll casting with weight (or roll casting w/o weight) is the influence of your fly rod's action.   I have found that a fast/ultra-fast fly rod performs poorly for roll casting;  I have tried to roll cast my ultra-fast action 5wt, but I consistently dump line in a big pile.   I have had better success with an old Fenwick medium action 6w I used to fish.  The medium action allowed the rod to load up better and transfer more energy to the fly line, thus making the line roll out cleanly.  That said, a medium or medium-fast action rod might be a good selection for Putah Creek.  However, I know there are quite of few folks that swear by a stiffer fast action rod for high-sticking.  Any thoughts?

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JL, that's a great description of casting with weight, I've had a lot of success doing exactly that and like you say, it's surprising how far you can chuck your rig simply by pre-loading the rod with the rig drifting in the current down stream.  Just don't lift too fast because that final rise to the surface is very productive, particularly when it is at the tail end of a pool.

I definitely need to focus more on changing the weight three times before changing the fly, but I'd encourage anyone to go ahead and put on what probably feels like a small cannonball when faced with fast water moving over deep pools.  It's a technique that works particularly well when you need to punch down under the fast water and linger in a deep eddy.  I've picked up some very nice fish bouncing copper johns off the bottom in 8-10' deep pools. The fish don't follow any rule books so whatever it takes to get a decent presentation is fair game to me.  Lots of great info on this thread...

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